This edition is only available in Italian.

“Remember the rock, the other climbers — climb clean”
Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost, 1972

These are the last words of the article that Yvon Chouinard and his friend and business partner Tom Frost published in the Chouinard Equipment catalog in 1972. The article, entitled “A word,” encouraged the use of nuts instead of pitons. This article, a true manifesto, the true origin of the free climbing revolution, changed climbers’ habits. For years, friends and nuts have been convenient tools for integrating the protection already in place, often pitons, on multi-pitch routes and only in some areas such as Val di Mello and Valle dell’Orco were they, and still are, an essential part of the climb.
For some years, either due to the revaluation of some areas of unbolted single pitches in Valle dell’Orco, or due to the birth of clean climbing paradises such as Cadarese and Yosesigo in Val d’Ossola, the passion for these tools has exploded, among other things increasingly safe and functional thanks to the studies of the main manufacturing companies. This manual focuses on clean climbing techniques for single pitches, aware that a good protection technique in natural gyms then easily leads to the use of jamming tools even on long routes, for those who are already able to move on traditionally protected multi-pitch walls. But it is not just a technical manual, because, in line with the Performa series, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Caminati are convinced that a good knowledge of the history and culture of mountaineering contributes in an essential way to the dimension of the dream and to multiply the emotions that every climber is constantly looking for: an itinerary is a line on the rock, but if you know who climbed it, when, how and why, each route acquires a different, special and unique flavor for each of us. For this reason, a large introductory chapter narrates the evolution that this discipline has had in space and time and a part of the manual presents 31 biographical profiles of the main champions of this activity. Finally, so that these theoretical teachings do not remain inactive in a drawer of our mind, the book proposes a series of locations in Italy and Europe - from the closest and most accessible to the most distant and challenging - where you can apply these lessons.

Maurizio Oviglia was born in Turin on June 9, 1963. He has been frequenting the Alps since the age of 9, where he and his father have climbed 30 peaks above 4,000 meters. He began climbing as a teenager and in the early 1980s repeated extremely difficult routes in the Alpine region. His first new route dates back to 1982, followed by a long series that led him to open more than 3,000 routes all over the world, from the walls of Turkey to Morocco, from Venezuela to Mexico. He has climbed not only in Europe, but also in the Himalayas, Patagonia, Canada, Jordan and the United States. In 1986 he moved permanently to Sardinia, beginning a thorough exploration of the island’s mountains, where he opened countless new routes and contributed with his articles and books to making it famous among sports climbers all over the world. He graduated as a graphic designer and photographer in 1981 in Turin. His activity as a writer began in 1987, with the climbing guide of the Orco Valley. In 1988 he published the successful guide Pietra di Luna on climbing in Sardinia, now in its fifth edition. He has also published various guides on Piedmont and Corsica, conceived and directed the UP yearbook for the Versante Sud publishing house. For the CAI and the Italian Touring Club he wrote Sardegna, from the Monti di Italia Collection, which won the Cardo d’Argento Award at the Trento Festival. He was editor of the international magazine Vertical Magazine for more than 10 years. A member of the CAI, National Free Climbing Instructor, he is also a member of the English Alpine Club. He is a popular blogger on social networks, has written articles in all the world's mountaineering and climbing magazines, and as a photographer he has published several covers and calendars. In addition to promoting sport climbing, as an equipment fitter and as a publicist, for more than 20 years he has dedicated himself to teaching and developing clean climbing in Italy.

Michele Caminati was born in Parma on 25 February 1985. Michele Caminati began climbing at the age of 13, quickly becoming passionate about bouldering. He dedicated himself to this specialty for years, becoming Italian champion in 2008 and participating in numerous international competitions. On rock he has climbed numerous problems all over the world up to 8b+ and has contributed to the development of several bouldering areas in Italy such as Lagoni, Ceriola, Pietra del Toro and Monte Amiata. At the age of 26, following a trip to the Peak District, he became passionate about English trad climbing and in the following years he repeated several of the reference routes on gritstone, up to E8 7a.