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Bouldering

Bouldering

Il manuale completo del sassista: tecnica, sicurezza, etica ed esplorazione

Alberto Milani
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  • This edition is only available in Italian.

    This manual aims to provide a reference for the practice of rock bouldering, both for those who are approaching this discipline and for those who are already experts but want to deepen their knowledge of all its aspects. The first part of the book aims to provide all the fundamental information relating to rock bouldering, analyzing its fundamental characteristics: what does bouldering mean, what are the "rules" and precautions that must be observed for a respectful and sustainable practice, what is the terminology that is useful to know, what are the movements and technical gestures that must be learned, what is the grading system and the types of rocks that are usually encountered. An entire chapter summarizes the long history of this discipline, starting from the first steps at the end of the 19th century up to the present day. This is followed by a detailed analysis of the equipment required: shoes, types of crash-pads and the criteria for their choice, brushes, chalk and the tools for a more "advanced" practice. A very large chapter is therefore dedicated to safety, to provide detailed information on how to use and position pads, how to parry correctly and safely in different situations and how to approach highballs.
    The second part of the book aims to provide a reference for the exploration and valorization of still uncontaminated bouldering areas: what additional equipment is required in these cases, with what criteria we can start exploring new boulders, how to conduct all the cleaning phases in creating access points, preparing the bases and brushing the rock, what are the ethical principles in opening new lines and how we can then evaluate and disseminate our boulders.

    Alberto Milani, born in 1980, began climbing at the age of 13. In the first years of activity he dedicated himself to sport climbing on cliffs and partly to mountaineering and then dedicated himself mainly to bouldering from the end of the 90s. Alongside outdoor activity, from 2003 to 2010 he participated in the major Italian bouldering competitions. Since the early 2000s he has been climbing at difficulties of 8a+ worked and 7c flash and has visited a good part of the European bouldering areas and beyond. He has always dedicated himself mainly to the exploration and development of new areas, developing the Valbondione boulders in the early 2000s and subsequently many other possibilities in different geographical contexts. He is the author of over 500 first ascents of lines with difficulties up to 8a. Since 2017 he has been a FASI climbing instructor, currently at the Manga Climbing gym in Milan. Having sensed from the beginning the great similarity between climbing and yoga, he approached the latter in 2002 and then practiced it continuously since 2007, starting in 2010 the multi-year training course to become a teacher, at the Jiva Yoga school in Como. In 2014 he concluded this course, graduating as a teacher recognized at national (CSEN) and international level (E-RYT®500/YACEP®). Since 2014 he has taught yoga and yoga for climbing and is one of the leaders of the four-year teacher training course at the Jiva Yoga Academy. He has published many articles on both yoga and climbing in specialized magazines, is the editor of the bouldering section of the up-climbing.com website and has been a contributor to Versante Sud and Climbing Radio since 2015. Since 2015 he has published the three editions of Yogarrampicata and in 2020 the Valtellina BLOC guide, published by Versante Sud. He is also the editor of the UP Climbing Yearbook and a member of the Editorial Coordination of the UP Climbing magazine.

  • Year 2023
    ISBN 978 88 55470 96 4
    Pages 328
    Height (cm) 22.5
    Width (cm) 19.0
    Thickness (cm) 1.7
    Weight (kg) 0.74
    Series code P 24