ARCO Rock

130 PROPOSALS. 5000 LINES
Arco – Lago di Garda Nord – Valle del Sarca – Val di Ledro – Valli Giudicarie – Trento

From beginners to experts, anyone who wishes to climb in the European paradise of sports climbing on rock, throughout every season, will find in this guide book over 130 crags and thousands of metres of climbing on beautiful limestone rock. The verticality of these areas has been placed under the magnifying glass, with the desire to offer the most updated work possible.

There are many new walls, among which the exceptional Terre Alte, Terra di Nessuno, Le Trincee, Mappamondo, Lundo…

The approach walks have all been covered one by one, with GPS track from the car park to the crag. All the drawings have been revisited. Every crag has been published thanks to the precious approval of its route openers, with whom we have always confronted ourselves. None of what is written on these pages has been done “under the table”. And it is with this logic in mind that there are no rock faces included here that the bolters did not want to make “public”.

From vertical slabs, to family friendly pitches, to overhanging 9b’s… Enjoy yourselves everybody!

Mario Manica: from Rovereto. His father Bruno was an alpinist and it was on his rope that as a child Mario carried out his first vertical experiments. It will then be the Dolomites, together with Marcello Luciani, to give him his baptism on rock. As well as the Sarca Valley when, in 1979, together with Giuliano Stenghel he opened the first two routes at Nago. In 1985 his first expedition: Patagonia. From then on various routes were opened: Alaska, Baffin, Greenland, NW Territories, Borneo, Iran, Oman, Mali. His winter repetitions on the North and South Towers of Paine, first in the world of that group. In the Great North, from 1988 to 2000, he was amongst the few alpinists to achieve such a high number of first ascents on big walls. Last but not least, the South face of Mount Dickey (Alaska), the southern arête of Mount Asgard (Baffin), the right arête of Mount Nalumasortoq (Greenland). Sonia’s father and Antonella’s husband, the pages of this guide book are the fruits of his passion for exploration..

Antonella Cicogna: The crags of Nago and Massone welcomed her when sports climbing was still in its infancy. Since then rock and ink have been inextricably linked in her life. A professional journalist and translator, she covers extra-European climbing news and sports climbing pages for Montagne 360°, monthly Italian Alpine Club magazine. The literary works translated by her for Versante Sud have won the prizes: Premio Gambrinus Giuseppe Mazzotti and the Premio ITAS Cardo d’Argento. She was head of the press office at the Trento Mountain Filmfestival. She comes from Milan, and moved to Rovereto after she met Mario. Together they have climbed, walked and pedalled while guided by that spirit of curiosity which has always moved them. Colombia and Iran are amongst the places they love most.

Roni Andres: born in the extreme South of Brazil, he came to Italy in 2008 to climb and work. Roni’s house is situated in the splendid Cavedine Valley, a short distance from Arco. Roni became one of the new bolters in this area. Amongst his greatest lines, the ones at Volta de’ No’, Cantina del Bibo and Pizarra stand out, he currently has first ascents up to 8c. When he is not working at Vertical Sport, he follows his second passion: photography. In 2019 he gained a diploma in Iridology/ Naturopathy at the “Luigi Costacurta” National Academy of Health and Natural Sciences in Trento.